Well & Water System Disinfection Hints & Tips

(A Supplement to the "Standard" Instructions)

I. Chlorine Solution. MORE CHLORINE IS NOT BETTER! The stronger the Chlorine the less it disinfects, it is better to repeat the procedure rather than making the chlorine solution stronger.

A. Add Salt, add 10 lbs of food grade salt (water softener rock salt not pellets or ice salt) to every 100 gals of solution. Add during the recirculation phase, using more will not hurt.

II. Solution Containers. Make the solution up in a NEW CLEAN garbage can or other large container, or clean a garbage can and line it with a new plastic garbage bag. Place the can(s) next to the well and either pour the solution down the well, or siphon the chlorine solution from the can(s) down the well. During the procedure don't be surprised by the color of the water, the chlorine will cause a lot of "crud" to be freed up and turn high iron water orange.

III. Pressure Tanks. The chlorine solution must come into contact with the entire interior of the pressure tank. After the chlorine solutions has been poured into the well, turn off the power to the pump. Then drain all the water from the pressure tank by opening the drain valve found at the pressure tank "tee" fitting.

A. Standard Pressure tanks (the steel ones).

1. Turn the power to the pump back on and refill the tank with the full strength chlorine solution from the well. Bleed all the air out of the top of the tank (open the valve or remove the plug), so that the entire tank is filled with the chlorine solution. When the entire pressure tank is filled with chlorine solution shut off the pump and reseal the tank.

2. After the WELL disinfection procedure is finished and the chlorine solution has been flushed from the well, turn off the power to the pump, and drain the chlorine from the pressure tank. Turn the pump back on and refill the pressure tank with fresh clean water from the well. This will restore the 50% air to water volume you need.

3. For buried pressure tanks contact a licensed well driller or pump installer for guidance.

B. Captive Air (Bladder or Balloon Tanks).

1. Turn the power to the pump back on and let the tank fill with the chlorine solution from the well.

2. After you are finished and the chlorine has been flushed from the well, turn off the power to the pump and drain the tank. Turn the power back on and let the tank fill up to the normal pressure.

IV. Treatment Units. Bypass ALL water treatment units, the chlorine and "crud" resulting from the procedure can ruin them!

A. Cartridge Filters. Remove the filter cartridge and put the unit back together and disinfect the housing. Replace the cartridge with a new one after the chlorine has been flushed from the system.

B. Water Softeners. Disinfect the water softener either just before or immediately after the water system is disinfected. To disinfect the softener add 1/4 to 1/2cup of household bleach (NO MORE than 1/2 cup) to the small fill tube (3-4 inch) in the large brine (salt) tank and do a manual recharge.

V. Plumbing. Run the water from EVERY faucet until you smell the bleach, don't forget any, toilet, shower, laundry tubs etc. Turn off the water and let it sit for as long possible, 24 hours is best.

A. Hot Water Heaters.

1. While the power to the pump is off and you are draining the pressure tank, if you can turn off the heater and drain and flush the crud from the hot water heater.

2. Bring the full strength chlorine solution into the water heater.

3. Turn the heater back on and raise the temperature to 160 degrees. DANGER! Make sure your water heater has a working pressure relief valve. This temperature is hot enough to scald and burn. USE CAUTION!

4. After the chlorine has been flushed from the well and while you are draining the pressure tank, turn off and drain the chlorine solution from the water heater. Refill the water heater with fresh water.

5. Turn on the water heater and don't forget to turn the temperature back down to a safe level, 110 to 120 degrees are often recommended.

B. Washing Machines.

1. If you can do NOT run the chlorine solution into the washing machine, up to the faucets connected to the machine but not into the machine.

2. If you must run the chlorine into the washing machine, running the machine through a couple of cycles of just water with a cup of "Iron Out" (or similar product) should clear up the iron spots.

VI. Flushing the Chlorine. Because of the way wells work it will take a LONG time to flush the chlorine from the well, don't worry keep the water flowing it will go away.

A. Flush the chlorine out to the "back 40" from an outside faucet. The Chlorine can kill grass and shrubs, driveways work well.

B. Never flush the chlorine solution from the well into the septic system. The septic system cannot handle the volume or the chlorine. Septic systems work by bacterial action.

C. After the well is clear turn off the pump and drain the pressure tank and hot water heater, (see sections III and V above).

D. The chlorine solution left in the pipes can be flushed to the septic system.

E. Dry chlorine tablets or granules (calcium hypochlorite) dissolve slowly in cold water, especially in deep wells. If you use dry chlorine you may have the chlorine "smell" back in the mornings. Make sure all the chlorine is gone before you put a treatment unit back on line.

For further information on wells, drinking water quality, or groundwater check out the WDNR's Bureau Of Drinking Water and Groundwater's WEB page at: http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/water/dwg. If you have any questions feel free to contact Chuck Fitzgerald at 715-365-8920.